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Fighting Holes and Measurements/Alibre Atom3D

silver2row

silver2row

Senior Member
Okay and So,

I have printed three or four different prints after measuring the 5/32" holes on this motor plate. I am working in millimeter now for lack of correct sized bolts. I am close to 5mm bolts for these holes. It is a snug fit but works for now.

When I measure with the calipers, I get 4.13mm or somewhere around that measurement for the diameter of the holes.

Now, when I measure the outsides of the holes, I receive a measurement of 60.15mm after zeroing out my caliper at 4.13mm (the diameter of the ID threaded component or tap or whatever).

So, another thing I am convinced of here... There is some deviation in squareness of the holes. It looks like someone tapped them off a machine (not with a machine). I am not 100% sure of that as of yet.

Okay and so, does anyone know of some math skills or formulas to arrive at how to conquer this four hole quest?

Two are 60.15mm apart and then the length is off too. It is at 63.13mm.

So, 60.15mm * 63.13mm with four holes total.

Seth

P.S. I guess my question arrives at: How would I measure the four holes completely to configure a conclusion on how I should build around them? I measure 3mm and 4mm from the edge of the hole to the end of the fillet.

Anyway, here are my data entry terms and the build. I measured the outside. My holes are still off, i.e. even with measurements.
 

Attachments

Also, is there not a 5/32" reference for the holes tool?

Seth

P.S. Sorry. I just got what I did. I made the 5mm hole 5.8mm on the motor plate for my measurements. Blah. Heads up. I am still off. Maybe I should use standard here?
 
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Forget this post. My motor plate is way off and not square, i.e. hence the confusion on my part (ha) and the inexpensive nature of the part.

Seth
 
Okay. So, my printer broke for the initial part set up. I figured, "Why not fix it?" So, I did. It is fixed. Yay! Outside of that idea, the base plate for the motor was the culprit.

It is in an odd symmetrical alliance. I am making parts now to test. Outside of things others have built that are not-quite-right, Atom3D and some inexpensive printer can toggle my senses for now.

Seth

P.S. Printing in "Wood" Filament for now. This is my first bout with "Wood." So, I will update anyone who wishes to see the end result and ideas around "wood" fiber filament alongside its PLA additives.

Also. I am printing with a new size of nozzle. I am testing 0.6mm for now. For some reason, I have not found a 1mm orifice for this nozzle. Oh well. Off to research more.
 
Okay and So,

I have got the darn hole measurements and three way, L-Shaped attachment printed, fastened, and it works. Phew and now, onto other requirements.

This bot is taking forever. I am on to spacers and other parts to the bot now. And man, let me tell you or whomever reads it...

1. The holes are exactly 4.3mm but accept 5mm bolts up to a certain point. Blah.
2. The dimensional data is awkward and therefore, I am only attaching two or three bolts through the 3D Printed portion to the base plate of the motor(s).
3. No three here, just finally happy the printing is not getting in the way of these awkward sized holes and threaded components.

Okay, so. Here is a brief intro. of photos for the build. No soldering so far.

I also want to say, if it has not been already type out by me, wood infused filament is nice. Very lean prints and fully flexible where needed.

Seth

P.S. Oh and the photo, i.e. not photos.

IMG_20251104_231213981.jpg

I picked up these motors from surplus center online along with two other types of motors. They deal with, um, overstocked items of motors and other types of mechanical (electromechanical too) parts.

Anyway, be very careful if you order from them. As most of their products are inexpensive, they may not have been tested prior to the selling of them. I have had about one bad-no-good motor so far from their company that set me back $3.50. S & H is what killed me on the deal. Blah, anyway, off to learn more about mechanical properties.
 
Aha. You have discovered the imprecisness of 3D printing. Your tolerance depends on the diameter of nozzle you use. For me, .4mm is a good compromise, but if you need precision, .2 is better, but it will print slower. I sometimes use .6mm, but then tiny holes won't close and lettering won't look very good.

In any case, If I am doing a 1 or 2 piece print of a design, I willl leave the holes with a marker, and drill them myself. Sometimes, I will even line up the pieces to drill holes. In any event, If the holes don't line up, or the pieces will not align properly, instead of reprinting the pieces, I will cut and drill them.

I suppose you could say I am a plastic surgeon.
 
My bot so far is awkward at best. I dropped the screws to fasten everything together maybe more than 15 times. Clumsy bot making at its best!

Seth

P.S. And yes @srjacob , 0.6mm is not so fine that precision is key. I just had a couple errors at first and now I am getting the hang of things. With the 15 plus dropped fasteners and parts so far, because of my older-wrong-ways of building, I have used older parts and newer parts, mashed them together, and will produce the bot still. Do not laugh too hard. Here is a photo of random weirdness of building:

Someone should have told me that circles usually do not fit in squares. Blah.

Oh. The photo:

odd_bot.jpg
 
silver2row said:
1. The holes are exactly 4.3mm but accept 5mm bolts up to a certain point. Blah.
2. The dimensional data is awkward and therefore, I am only attaching two or three bolts through the 3D Printed portion to the base plate of the motor(s).
Click to expand...

1. If self tapping a bolt into a 3d printed part I don't use the tapping hole size but something a little larger and I start the hole with a taper. In this instance I would start the hole 5mm and taper it a few mm to about 4.5mm.

2. If I am printing a large print that takes many hours and has holes, or any other feature, that has to line up or mate I print a sample just a few mm high which takes minutes and can be offered up like a template to make sure the final part is going to do the job intended. I always do this when making an adaptor from one tube/duct size to another, saves hours of grief and wasted filament.
 
Stu3d said:
1. If self tapping a bolt into a 3d printed part I don't use the tapping hole size but something a little larger and I start the hole with a taper. In this instance I would start the hole 5mm and taper it a few mm to about 4.5mm.

2. If I am printing a large print that takes many hours and has holes, or any other feature, that has to line up or mate I print a sample just a few mm high which takes minutes and can be offered up like a template to make sure the final part is going to do the job intended. I always do this when making an adaptor from one tube/duct size to another, saves hours of grief and wasted filament.
Click to expand...
So do I Stu3d - saves tons of time to test first. Much depends on the orientation of the holes and the material - if the holes are on the side of the part and the material is soft or the holes are too small to add support to, I either have over-size holes in the model that print smaller or print pilot holes and post-process accuracy by drilling them. Have to say that the threaded holes/shafts Atom3D has produced in my ABS prints have been fantastic, I couldn't be happier with the results.
 
Smart advice. Now, why did I not do it? No clue. Less experience in the field of caring and not wasting I presume to be the facts here.

I will attempt the smaller 3mm to 5mm print for mating in the future.

Seth
 
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