What's new
By:

Need Some Metal Parts

RocketNut

RocketNut

Alibre Super User
Is there someone in the CAD world who has access to a CNC or SLM (metal) printer to make me 7 metal parts I need for a project I am working on.

The motor (NEMA 34 Steppe )Motor) uses 400 watts of power, meaning it gets very hot. (It will burn your finger). I tried to print the parts with PETG filament, but it melted the plastic. So this means the parts need to make with mental.

The attached ZIP has a package (parts, assembly) files, and motor and bearing. spec sheets. The assembly has a exploded view of that motor mounting parts. With the parts I need are colored in red.

There are 2 more parts if this test unit works as accpted.

I am willing to pay a reasonable price for these parts.

1778266320350.jpeg
 

Attachments

Last edited:
Check PCBWay or JLCPCB for CNC machining. Quotes are generally instantenous. They also do 3D printing in plastic or metals.
Make sure check online if there is any current coupons that you can save some more before checking out.

I find Craftcloud offers reasonable price for 3D printing as well.
 
Your design looks to me like it was made with 3d-printing in mind. That itself is not a bad thing but I see many things that make it impossible for the parts to be milled.

How willing are you to optimise the design for manufacturability? Because the only process suitable as they are now would be SLM. Or maybe die sinking EDM but the price for that is going to be even less reasonable.

(Also the Bearing collides with the motor, and the shaft extender with the tool shaft top half)

If you want to consider it, you might make a second shaft and mill the hexagon for the tool shaft top half directly into it. Then use the bearings on that shaft and use a clamping coupling to transmit the torque from the motor.
www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com www.mcmaster.com
 
Yes your correct I designed the parts to be 3D printed. I have printed (Kubra 3 Max using PETG filament) them to ensure the parts fitted together properly..

The bearing does not collided with anything. It fits in a bearing well to keep the drive shaft extinction part from rubbing with motor mounting parts (main encloser part and bottom support plate).

Here is a screenshot that shows how the parts are assembled (top and bottom)

Yes I am very open for help to optimize the design for making manufacturability.

Please be aware there at lest 2 possible 4 addition parts to complete the project.. I just need to assemble these to ensure it will work as required.

I trued to armament a ZIP file of the require STL files but it saves it is to big. Here a DeioBox Link. Part STL Parts


1778365880672.jpeg
 
Last edited:
@RocketNut Hey. Also, the heat from the motor(s) may have something ill-fated with the set up. I was once told that holding torque with too much current creates the motor windings to get severely warm, too hot to handle, and quickly with the wrong set up. If you want me to make a paper on it, let me know. I like motors.

So for instance here, if we jam 350w of power in a motor that can only withstand 65w, the heat dissipation will accrue genuinely and quickly.
 
According to the motor data sheet each coil draws 5 ANPS, and I was told by the vendor to use 36VDC to power the motor. I have set the current limit to 4.5 AMPS. The motor still gets hot without any load attached.

Also, according to the data sheet the temperature rise max is 80C almost hot enough to boil water and melt the 3D printed parts.

I am using a Pololu High-Power Stepper Motor Driver 36v8 to power the motor. The driver can handle up to 8 AMPS. The driver warms up (fan cooled) a little meaning it is handling the require power.





1778435029192.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • 1778434870747.jpeg
    1778434870747.jpeg
    84.7 KB · Views: 0
Last edited:
Okay. I am not a motor scientist yet but I can see Pololu drivers working. Yes. I have used them before today. I have seen their drivers fail too. They were older models but they failed on simple 6v geared DC motors with a small 9v alkaline battery for both motors. I am not selling motors. Do not worry. But, and I know Pololu has come a long way in making drivers that work (I just picked some up), but if you are going to use a NEMA 34 motor and need a NEMA 34 driver, I say go with the driver rated from a supplier that understands the motor in question, the driver in question, and the end use.

I got these drivers because they can handle 1.0A per phase all the way to 3.2A per phase and my holding torque on 24v switching current is driving my motors too hot.

I know this is a lot of hearsay for now.

Pick what the people sell and mfg. and then go to them when what they sell and mfg. goes odd. For instance, I could not figure out why what was listed on the datasheet was incorrect in my case.

I picked up a LCR meter. I can now check capacitance and resistance and inductance. I am still configuring things but all I know so far is that at the point things rotate (RPM), there is a holding torque release into movement (RPM) at varying levels and then when it is in a specific state, the holding torque is back doing its thing.

Anyway, running torque is the RPM and the holding torque is the stationary portion to the game when the heat release is higher. I think that is correct. It is either that idea or my set up is defunct. Because of my defunct set up of motors, drivers, and holding/running torque, the machine runs but the motors are suffering during every rotation.

Some history and background on small research and long time efforts in finding roots to the cause is that bunch of articulation.

I think my motors are defunct and the drivers are okay from what their website states about their drivers. Testing will ensue. Oh. Happy Mother's Day everyone... In 90 countries, people celebrate Mother's Day (today).

So and so, physics and geometry are my weakest subjects. I guess because of those two issues I have now, motors may not be best suited to discuss from me.

The datasheet looks old and the motors may be older? Anyway, I am off. I am making a pitstop and saw the post. I thought I would give some two-cents of an idea.
 
Yes, there was dirt on the scanner that made it to look old. The motor (Stepperonline) is less than a year old. I think they manufacturer step motors and drives (including custom motors).

Evert thing is done and working perfectly, it is this heat problem is the only thing holding up the project.
 
Last edited:
Don't know if those drivers are capable, but the ones I fitted to my CNC Mill automatically reduce the current, when the motor is idle.
When Setting up the machine over a couple of hours, the motors are barely warm to the touch.
Motors are a mixture of Stepperonline Nema 23 and 34s (Can't remember the power ratings thoughh), with encoder feedback to the driver.
Drivers are Stepperonline CL87T, running on 40V A/C.
 
@RocketNut ,

I have been researching ways to create the holding torque to release less heat which will cause your plastics to melt around the metal electromechanical parts. Outside of those ideas, I found pcbway as an inexpensive alternative to mfg. a part.

If you need metal part mfg. done, there are many places online I have found:

1. https://www.pcbway.com/rapid-prototyping/manufacture/
2. https://www.protolabs.com/services/cnc-machining/cnc-milling/
3. https://www.xometry.com/capabilities/cnc-machining-service/

Those seem to be the easiest ways to get them done online without local ideas.

Seth

P.S. I was reviewing some drivers from TI.com and their way to create less heat while holding torque is in play which gets hotter than actual movement (usually). Most articles relating to heat dissipation for motors and drivers from TI.com are pretty informative. Although they only cover their driver chips, their datasheets go right along with the data and use cases.

Just an Update Here:

I have some gecko drivers, their least expensive motor drivers, and some omc-stepperonline.com motors. My source code and use case for the thermal camera(s) has since been lost and/or is void to this day. So, I cannot do proper write up of the heat dissipation with video and photos. The gecko drivers are the G251x drivers and the motor from omc-stepperonline.com is the 17HS19-2004S1. Although my drivers can handle 3.2A per phase, I have a resistor causing the drivers to only handle 2.1A per phase. I have a 24v PSU handling the three motors which are all different and call for different current and amperage levels.

The main issue I see from my PSU to the drivers to the motors are these common factors:

a. Heat generation
b. High Heat in the motors
c. and...although the machine works, it is precariously slow

Since it is a bottom-of-the-line CNC, I expect nothing less than for it to move without rapids at high rates and mm/sec^2. The machine is slow, e.g. hence why the building on this new machine is taking place.
 
Last edited:
@srjacob , hey there. I have moved away from carbon fiber stuff sort of...

Dupont used to make 3D Filament. PA6-Glass Fill. I got me 2.2 lbs of it and the ideas surrounding it are to, especially with PA6 and PA12, push it through a heated chamber for six to 12 hours. Some people go as far as annealing it for 14 hours at 100 Fahrenheit.

Seth

P.S. When I say Dupont, they did some good research (as usual). This unbreakable plastic with glass fill is outstanding and astounding all in one. If we need a ole swing of the hammer test, let me know. I will build a cube or a sphere and then annihilate it (on video). It is tough stuff.

Update

I do not think Dupont releases their filaments any longer. I am not quite sure as of current times with their filaments. I scored big with this one. 295 Celsius extrusions and heated chambers are the only way to get this stuff sticking around to not warp. Luckily, I have some left. I found a couple people still producing it. The companies range from COEX to filamatrix. Who are they? No clue. I have not done the walk through yet. I think COEX still offers tours.
 
I don't use PA6 (or PA12) because they are really hydroscopic. My recommendation of the 3DXTech ezPC+CF seems to be a better choice. I have printed with it (with a Prusa MK4 (in a Creality Hood) and it prints nicely, is really strong, and will withstand a high temperature. That stuff is stronger them most metals, although it isn't very heat conductive.
 
I'm hoping someone here could print the parts for me. Ad for the filament only requirement is it can handle and will not melt with the motor's heat.
Here is the DropBox link to the 7 parts I need in STEP format. I can also supply the STL files,

Again willing to pay a reasonable price.
 
Last edited:
RocketNut said:
Is there someone in the CAD world who has access to a CNC or SLM (metal) printer to make me 7 metal parts I need for a project I am working on.

The motor (NEMA 34 Steppe )Motor) uses 400 watts of power, meaning it gets very hot. (It will burn your finger). I tried to print the parts with PETG filament, but it melted the plastic. So this means the parts need to make with mental.
Click to expand...

FWIW, PETG is good for ~80C but PCTG will take ~90C. Much better stuff to work with too with similar printer requirements so if you can print PETG you can probably print PCTG. Like I said fwiw and all but I would give it a shot if you don't find takers otherwise.

www.3dfuel.com

What Is PCTG Filament? Benefits, Uses & Comparison | 3D-Fuel

Learn about PCTG filament, its benefits, and why it's a top upgrade over PETG for durable, chemical-resistant 3D printing projects.
www.3dfuel.com www.3dfuel.com

3D-Fuel Tough Pro PCTG Filament @ Amazon

edit to add: BTW have you taken an accurate temp reading on the motor shaft & case, curious.
 
Textured beds and PCTG work wonders. Use a no texture style and see the filament peel off the PEI coating(s)...
 
@RocketNut , what type of filament do you want me to use? If I have to inhale this mess, make me proud and abuse it until it does melt! I have some PA6 with 25% Glass Fill. Highly unbreakable but the filament does not handle supports well. This stuff adheres so well to itself. The regular and/or tree styled supportive parts are permanently stuck...

I can try another engineering grade plastic type. Give me until around the 5th of next month if you are not strapped for timing.

Seth

P.S. I will waste some to print something in your .stp files listed. Maybe add an .AD_PRT set of files on this forum instead and/or package. I dislike dropbox. I have been burned by dropbox before today and random files online are hard to download on my computer.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top