Suggestions for a reasonable 1st 3d Printer

[Ken226]

Google says:
"
Yes, the Creality K1C 3D printer uses Klipper-based Creality OS. However, the K1C's web interface is limited and only allows basic monitoring and running of 3D print jobs. To gain full control over the printer, you can add extensions or break the chain.

Here are some things you can do with full Klipper access on the K1C: Add your own extruder, Calibrate the e-steps, and Redo the pressure advance.

Klipper is a 3D printing software that uses Python for most of its code. It can improve print quality and speed by maintaining precision at higher speeds. Klipper is recommended to run on a Raspberry Pi 2, 3, or 4. "

That's all way over my head.
I'm happy to just plug & play these days.

Jim

With it being a lock and limited version of Klipper, it's hard to say what it's capabilities are or what limitations were built into it.

With the standard, run of the mill open source Klipper/Mainsail setup, the printer itself doesn't have or need a control panel. Many people install one, but it isn't needed. Everything is controlled from another device like a smartphone, laptop, tablet, etc, via the mainsail web interface. You don't even need an internet connection, it's more of a home intra-net thing. The printer is connected to your home wifi router, and any device that is connected to the same wifi router can control the printer.


For me, since all files have to be created in CAD and sliced on a PC anyway, I just use the same laptop that I run Alibre and OrcaSlicer on. I create the part in Alibre, export the .stp file, slice it and send it to the printer and start the print, from the same laptop, without ever needing to go out the the shop where the printer is physically located.

Of course, the cameras are so you can actually check on the printer and the print progress remotely as well.

 

[albie0803]

Keep us updated when you get one.
Show us your first prints.

So other than a few trinkets for the grandkids downloaded from the net, here is my first "real" print. I am doing a 1/10 model of the double decker reeving winches we make at work for the mining draglines.

This is the lower mainframe. (and yes, I've brought it to work for "Show & Tell" )

 

[Weekdayweekend]

Hi All,
I am considering getting myself a 3d printer for hobby work. What would you recommend?

It all depends on your budget and needs.
If you want a 3D printer that just works reliability without the need for constant maintenance and work, get the best BambuLab printer you can afford and use OrcaSlicer.
If you don't mind spending a little time maintaining the printer, replacing parts, etc, then an Ender 3 or similar could be a great option.
I don't recommend Prusa printers because they're very bad value for money compared to BambuLab.

 

[RTschaggelar]

I'm happy with an FLSUN Q-5, a delta printer, as opposed to the usual XYZ printers. It is able to print 20cm diameter and 20cm high. The clip shows actual printing speed... oh the clip vanished...zipped. it is very fast as it has little mass to be moved. It did cost around 300$ 2 years ago. I usually print in PLA. But PETG should also be possible.

 

[Bazzer]

Hi All,
I am considering getting myself a 3d printer for hobby work. What would you recommend?

I know you have bought a 3D printer now but my recommendation is Flashforge Adventurer 5M Pro.

The 5M Pro is a superb piece of kit, it practically unboxes it self !! It is one of the best pieces of tech equipment that I have ever bought.

Great detail and very fast printing.

 

[sreaves]

Hi All,
I am considering getting myself a 3d printer for hobby work. What would you recommend?

Bambu Lab X1 Carbon or if you can't afford that one the Bambu Lab P1S bar that any printer from Bambu Lab. I have the X1C and it is by far the best 3D printer I have ever used. All of my previous experiences I was spending more time messing with it than actually making parts. The X1C just works. Iv'e used PLA/PETG/ABS but PETG and ABS with the textured heated build plate is the way to go. After owning the X1C I would not consider any printer that is not enclosed as you really need that for filaments other than PLA. The X1C can run nylon and other filaments. Having the AMS option is a plus but don't run glass loaded filaments in the AMS. Save up your money and get a X1C you will not be dissapointed.

 

[dean448]

Bambu lab P1S for general prints and X1C for functional high strength materials. 256mm build size. Sales are going on now. Also sold thru Micro Center stores.

 

[HaroldL]

I just picked up a X1C from the local Micro Center. I think their estimate of how fast it is to set up is a bit misleading, at least for a novice on their first 3D printer. One thing I would like Bamboo Lab include in the package is a magnifying glass -- the type in the instruction manual is soooo small and some things are not clear or left out.

Next steps are to get it to talk to my computer, I couldn't get it to connect on my network, yet. I'll have to work on that. Other than that, so far, the sample prints look pretty good.

 

[JimCad]

Christmas has arrived early then Harold.
You'll love it.

Jim

 

[albie0803]

I found the Bambu setup instructions both comprehensive and lacking at the same time. I followed along with the unpacking and setup video ok, but there was a point where it said, move the bed up to get the packing from underneath it but didn't say how. The directions seemed to say that it had to be done manually (using the control panel) but it moved to mid position by itself when I switched it on.
Another thing that wasn't mentioned was How long should I leave the print to cool before removing it? Do I need to?
Also with the AMS, there was no mention of the desiccant packs or why you need them and the instructions on the little sticker on the pocket lids seemed to tell you to dispose of them, not dispose of the plastic sleeve they come in.
I did eventually find a video that showed them to you but there was no If you have an AMS then go to this video for further instructions.
These are just examples of many small things I found while getting started where they seemed to assume that you would know these things.

Needless to say it has been running hot and I've already purchased 2 lots of coloured filament.

I was also impressed at the range of hardware for kit building. Bolts, self tapping screws, nuts, bearings etc.

I posted my winch frame pic earlier. I have redone it in blue and will be bolting it together with M1.6, M2, M2.5 & M3 bolts, nuts and self tappers.

I'll post a completed pic soon

 

[HaroldL]

I found the Bambu setup instructions both comprehensive and lacking at the same time.

I can agree with that.

I followed along with the unpacking and setup video ok, but there was a point where it said, move the bed up to get the packing from underneath it but didn't say how. The directions seemed to say that it had to be done manually (using the control panel) but it moved to mid position by itself when I switched it on.

I didn't see any video until I installed Bamboo Studio. The instructions on mine said to not remove the packing from under the bed until after it had done some bed leveling after start up.

One thing is for sure, this thing is fast. Thinking back on the printer we had at work from Stratasys, the X1C is more than twice as fast.

 

[HaroldL]

Next steps are to get it to talk to my computer, I couldn't get it to connect on my network, yet. I'll have to work on that. Other than that, so far, the sample prints look pretty good.

Finally got Bambu Studio to connect to the printer. Turns out that you need to log in to an account in Studio before it will even list the printer. Why Bambu is set up to require logging in to an account seems a bit overly protective. I don't understand why it doesn't work like a document printer and just list the printer to send the file to.

One thing I do like about it though is that is accepts STEP 242 files. I tried exporting a STL file and Studio needed to "repair" the file. After repairing it most of the features were gone and it was just a solid blob on the screen.

 

[GeneT45]

Finally got Bambu Studio to connect to the printer. Turns out that you need to log in to an account in Studio before it will even list the printer. Why Bambu is set up to require logging in to an account seems a bit overly protective. I don't understand why it doesn't work like a document printer and just list the printer to send the file to.

One thing I do like about it though is that is accepts STEP 242 files. I tried exporting a STL file and Studio needed to "repair" the file. After repairing it most of the features were gone and it was just a solid blob on the screen.

You *can* "sneaker net" the micro-SD file directly to the printer and skip the network connection if you want. You can also experiment with OrcaSlicer, which I don't think requires the Bambu login / acct. (I downloaded it with that it mind, but haven't gotten around to playing with it).

GsT

 

[Ken226]

You *can* "sneaker net" the micro-SD file directly to the printer and skip the network connection if you want. You can also experiment with OrcaSlicer, which I don't think requires the Bambu login / acct. (I downloaded it with that it mind, but haven't gotten around to playing with it).

GsT

I use OrcaSlicer with my Voron 2.4, it's my favorite slicer so far.

No account or login is required, as I don't have a Bambu acct.

But, Orca is pretty aggressive in their default speeds for the pre-canned Voron 2.4 settings. They worked, but at the very limit of the machines capabilities with no margin and I got the occasional missed step on the X/y steppers. Anyone using it should check the speed settings first, as the defaults might cause some surprises.

I had to go in and dial the settings back just a little, using PrusaSlicers settings as a guide.

 

[albie0803]

Hey Guys, a Bamboo related question as I haven't "done" enough on the Bamboo Forum yet to be able to post a question.

A model on the Makerworld has the following filament colour legend.
Does anyone know what the 2 hatched areas on the second line mean?

 

[Cator]

Hey Guys, a Bamboo related question as I haven't "done" enough on the Bamboo Forum yet to be able to post a question.

A model on the Makerworld has the following filament colour legend.
Does anyone know what the 2 hatched areas on the second line mean?
View attachment 43593

Hi @albie0803
That symbol with the red/brown and white checker pattern usually means a filament transition in a 3D printing project. It shows that the printer will use a certain amount of filament (in this case, 12 g and 4 g) during a color or material change.It’s basically there to help you calculate the total amount of filament needed, including what gets wasted during the change.
Regards,
Francesco

 

[alan-bc]

After fooling around with lower tier 3d printer kits and spending PILES of money on parts and HOURS of CNC time and MONTHS of labour, I still couldn't get a reliable print.

I finally broke down and bought a Prusa MK3S+ kit. It was by far the most expensive printer compared to others of comparable specs (by FAR). But it was also the one that people said "just works".

Assembled carefully in just a few hours, went through a bit of a "first layer" alignment procedure (trivial) and printed, successfully. As did every print afterwards. It just worked.

Then saw the MK4S and liked the idea of faster printing. Considered buying just the upgrade parts from Prusa but realized I could buy a complete printer (kit) for just $250 more than the upgrade, effectively buying me an MK3S+ for $250!

Bought the complete unit, assembled and printed .. no alignment of any sort required .. and it was perfect. That first print and a few dozen since. It truly "just works".

One hint. The printer comes with a smooth printing plate, perfect for PLA, terrible for PETG. Buy a second textured plate (from Prusa) for use with PETG.

Alan

 

[nateeric]

Starting with an Ender, and owning 3 Bambu units now, I appreciate my time with the Ender. It taught me so much about the workings of 3D printing and troubleshooting the process and the like. However, moving to the Bambu units and just being able to set up my prints and hit go without really worrying about first layer and other issues is great. The technology continues to improve and I'm all for it.

 

[JimCad]

Moving from my Davinci AIO to the Creality K1C was painless. Took it out of the box, removed packaging materials, switched it on and printed.
No faffing about. It just works and it's so quick.
It's also great at building things with far less supports than the old machine.
I'm delighted with it.

Jim