3D Printing Newbe Needs Help

[RocketNut]

I have been playing with my first 3D printer for the past few weeks, with a lot of problems. After wasting a lot of filament I think it's time I call in the pros. I noticed my build table is lose, it wobbles almost 8mm. I taped 2 rolls of quarters to it which stopped the wobble. Yes I have contacted support on how to tight it up, but have heard back yet. I also know about leveling the build table. I use the first layer (the adhersion layer) to ensure the filament lines are consented.

I have several questions:
1) How to adher the print the the build table? My problem is the adhesion brim wraps and/or detached's from the build table which causes print to becoming lose. I am using a build plate glue that seems to work for the most part.
2) Preventing print warping. Most time the print warps off the build plate and/or after several layers been printed.
3) How to ensure layers adhered together. Layers not adhering to each other causing the print breaking during print and gaps in outer wall or warps causing errors in the print. Most times the print shears off the build table.

The next two post is the models I have been trying to print.

 

[RocketNut]

MODEL 1:

The best result I have been able to achieve is about 50% ( appx 20 hrs) before the part became loose. Most time times the bottom 3 tubes warps or detaches from the build table. I have tried tapping the brim adhersion layer to the build table with limit success of being able to print up to where the 3 tubes merge into the main body.

 

[RocketNut]

MODEL 2:

After a few layers the corners warps off the built table causing the layers of filaments to not adhere to the previous layers, forming a spider web of filament ( a real mess).

 

[HaroldL]

Which 3d printer did you buy? With all the problems you are having with it, it almost sounds like you should get a RGA for this one and get a different printer.

 

[bigseb]

I have been playing with my first 3D printer for the past few weeks, with a lot of problems.

What printer do you have? What slicer are you using? What brand of material? what type of material?

I noticed my build table is lose, it wobbles almost 8mm. I taped 2 rolls of quarters to it which stopped the wobble. Yes I have contacted support on how to tight it up, but have heard back yet.

Give more information about this. Include some photos (or even upload a video on youtube) for extra detail.

1) How to adher the print the the build table? My problem is the adhesion brim wraps and/or detached's from the build table which causes print to becoming lose. I am using a build plate glue that seems to work for the most part.

This depends on what material you are using. Either there are many options out there.
Bed: Using a glass bed is very popular. There are other options like buildtak, but glass is still the best and cheapest.
ABS: Slurry (a mixture of approx. 50ml acetone with about 200mm ABS dissolved in it) is best. Apply a thin layer to the bed. Kapton is another option works too. Tricky to apply though.
PLA: Sugar water, blue painters tape and hairspray are the most common ways.

2) Preventing print warping. Most time the print warps off the build plate and/or after several layers been printed.

From this I assume you are using ABS. If so the only way to successfully print ABS is:
1) Use a heated bed
2) The build chamber must be fully enclosed and sealed against draughts.
3) The build chamber must be heated in some form. Usually the leaving the heated bed for about 20 minutes before printing is sufficient to heat up the chamber.

3) How to ensure layers adhered together. Layers not adhering to each other causing the print breaking during print and gaps in outer wall or warps causing errors in the print. Most times the print shears off the build table.

Again, from this I assume you are using ABS. Follow the steps I mentioned in my answer to your question 2.

 

[TylerDurden]

Ja, sounds like the printer might not be the best.

That said, it's pretty important that the plate is evenly heated and to have the printer enclosed, so the air around the print is warm. I regularly tape the door closed on the Makerbot to help keep models from warping off the plate.

 

[bigseb]

Your other two posts sound like classic ABS problems. I mentioned how to address these already.

 

[RocketNut]

I bought a CV-10 (http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_441281.html) printer. What really sold it was it's large print size 300X300X400mm (not to mention the price).

RGA?

I wondering if the slicing software (Cura 2.3.1) I'm using. Could it be I do not have it step properly? I have contacted support about the settings, again with a out response.

It seems to be working except the warping and adhesion problem. Could be the nozzle temp cause the layers to separate?

 

[HaroldL]

RGA= Return Goods Authorization. You need or should have one before you send an expensive piece of equipment or POS back to the seller. You get it from the seller.

 

[RocketNut]

bigsed I was typing my response when you posted your response to my question.

==========
The printer and slicer is in first response. As for the material, your right ABS (http://www.ebay.com/itm/301747366381)for the booster and enclosure is Taulman Nylon Bridge (http://www.ebay.com/itm/331861959844) (side note I did not pay the current price of $119 only 17.50/roll). I will order some PLA today an give it whirl.
=========
Please do not be surprise I do not have a camera still or video . So I don't any way to show this table wobble.
=========
The build table is glass and the adhesive I'm using (http://www.ebay.com/itm/272497265205?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT) is for glass plates. The bottle says is good for PLA and ABS.
=========
The printer has a heated bed. The printer is open frame, meaning the print area is not enclosed. I will try per-heating the bed as you suggested. I will let you know what happens.
=========

Again thanks for info.

 

[bigseb]

I bought a CV-10 (http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_441281.html) printer. What really sold it was it's large print size 300X300X400mm (not to mention the price).

Remember this thread? And my response:

Nice build volume btw. I wish I had something a bit bigger too. Yours isn't enclosed so forget printing ABS, stick with PLA, PETG and possibly ASA.

Unfortunately, until you make an enclosure (welcome to the 'maker' world, btw) you will not be able to print with ABS. Sorry. At least making an enclosure is easy enough.

 

[bigseb]

I wondering if the slicing software (Cura 2.3.1) I'm using. Could it be I do not have it step properly? I have contacted support about the settings, again with a out response.

Nothing wrong with Cura. It will take a while to get everything sorted though. Check out the Cura forums.

This is what separates the consumer grade printers from brands like Stratasys. Yes, you can get amazing prints from desktop printers but it won't happen overnight.

Could be the nozzle temp cause the layers to separate?

Yes but not in your case. You need to enclose your print and keep the build chamber warm.

 

[bigseb]

bigsed I was typing my response when you posted your response to my question.

==========
The printer and slicer is in first response. As for the material, your right ABS (http://www.ebay.com/itm/301747366381)for the booster and enclosure is Taulman Nylon Bridge (http://www.ebay.com/itm/331861959844) (side note I did not pay the current price of $119 only 17.50/roll). I will order some PLA today an give it whirl.
=========
Please do not be surprise I do not have a camera still or video . So I don't any way to show this table wobble.
=========
The build table is glass and the adhesive I'm using (http://www.ebay.com/itm/272497265205?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT) is for glass plates. The bottle says is good for PLA and ABS.
=========
The printer has a heated bed. The printer is open frame, meaning the print area is not enclosed. I will try per-heating the bed as you suggested. I will let you know what happens.
=========

Again thanks for info.

Nylon is a bastard to print. It warps even worse than ABS. Again, the build area must be kept warm. As for adhesion, use the methods I mention above. Won't help much without the enclosed chamber though.

 

[ajayre]

For PLA I have from bottom to top: heated bed, aluminum plate, glass, Kapton tape.

Before every print I clean the Kapton tape with pure Acetone. For me this is so reliable I can trust it to always stick. Note - don't use nail polish remover as that contains moisturizer, etc. I rarely change the Kapton tape.

Don't use hairspray - a local kid recently blew himself and his building up doing that with a 3D printer.

Leveling the bed is super-critical. If you don't get it completely level you will be plagued with adhesion problems.

I print the first layer with the bed at 60C and then it drops to 52C for the remaining layers.

 

[bigseb]

If you really want to print in ABS then I highly recommend the UP Box from Tiertime. When I buy a new printer it will be the UP Mini 2 (a bit smaller and cheaper). This are proprietry, closed-source printers that are the best thing after Stratasys for ABS.

 

[RocketNut]

This is the only printer with a very large build volume (exspuply in the Z-Axis of 400mm) and I can afford. All the other others have only have a around 250mm build height. I need this large print size because I can print production units. Like the booster I mentioned in my first post. I want to sell it to my fellow rocktires. Then there is my main project a high power rockery flight controller. Which needs a support structure ( apprx 345mm high) to with stand the very high Gs (>10Gs) and vibrations of flight. I am want to use carbon fiber filament for this support. Along with support there is the charger to charge up the on board battery, which I want to print that up also. The part is the the second part in my first post. I can go on an on about why my needs for such a large print volume. Printing this items well help keeping the cost now to reasonable prices for my customers. One part I send out for a quote came back at over $250/unit, meaning I would have to charge over $300 for a device that has a fair market price of about $75.

What is Kapton tape?

 

[bigseb]

This is the only printer with a very large build volume (exspuply in the Z-Axis of 400mm) and I can afford. All the other others have only have a around 250mm build height. I need this large print size because I can print production units. Like the booster I mentioned in my first post. I want to sell it to my fellow rocktires. Then there is my main project a high power rockery flight controller. Which needs a support structure ( apprx 345mm high) to with stand the very high Gs (>10Gs) and vibrations of flight. I am want to use carbon fiber filament for this support. Along with support there is the charger to charge up the on board battery, which I want to print that up also. The part is the the second part in my first post. I can go on an on about why my needs for such a large print volume. Printing this items well help keeping the cost now to reasonable prices for my customers. One part I send out for a quote came back at over $250/unit, meaning I would have to charge over $300 for a device that has a fair market price of about $75.

That's all fair enough but be prepared to tinker. You will have to make an enclosure for your printer. Since your printer very large you may want to do it in such a way that it is heated by an external source. Some people use hairdryers. Do that AT YOUR OWN RISK!! Hairdryers are not meant to run for extended periods. A proper heating unit may be worth purchasing, one that can stand long periods of continuous use. Even better if you set the temp. The enclosure itself can be made quite easily at home. Perspex is a popular choice. You will not be able to print ABS without a heated enclosure.

What is Kapton tape?

Google

 

[MikeHenry]

If you really want to print in ABS then I highly recommend the UP Box from Tiertime. When I buy a new printer it will be the UP Mini 2 (a bit smaller and cheaper). This are proprietry, closed-source printers that are the best thing after Stratasys for ABS.

I'm pretty sure RocketNut wants to print pretty big parts and needs a printer with as large an envelope as possible.

 

[bigseb]

Unfortunately there is only so much you can do with a vanilla $300 printer.

 

[ajayre]

Design smaller parts that snap or bolt together.